in my last post i talked about the idea of body conscious clothes that parallel almost a medical examination of the human form, and i didn’t specifically talk about the spring 2010 a.f. vandervorst piece used in the editorial but it got me thinking more about the last two seasons from filip arickx and an vandevorst.
the best collections for me are always the ones where the clothes examine a relationship between different/unexpected and not opposite sources. when i finish looking at a runway presentation i want to be made to think about the designer’s thought process (this is really a discussion for another time but i think this is what sets visionaries apart–ideas versus formulas. it’s not hard to make a pretty or well styled collection but ultimately there’s a superficiality that’s not left unnoticed). rodarte in general is a perfect example of both good ideas and good execution. a.f. vandervorst’s s/s 10 collection definitely has a lot of good ideas but the execution is a little scatterbrained.
the best part of it are these stiff casts of the body that have been layered under sheer and drapey pieces. they are not only literal clothing surgery (they’re bolted together) but evoke this sense of a clinical, mechanic evaluation of the body.
fall 2010, however, gets it perfectly right. the continuation of these structural elements further the idea of the body as a machine but are somehow now erotic. these clothes are almost automated the way you can see how they are constructed and the way they move–the knee-joint boots, the skintight gloves–the models are all covered head to toe, yet there is still an allusion of flesh. whereas before they seemed to cover the body, now they reveal. post-apocalyptic future-tribes aren’t a new concept but equestrian robots definitely bring a new perspective to how we think of futurism and the relationship between clothes and the body.